EAT
Bar Palladio (our favorite bar in the world. Period.)*
Caffé Palladio (the newest, chicest respite in the Pink City. Heaven.)*
Indian Coffee House (old-school classic; special coffee, masala dosas)
Anokhi Cafe (french press coffee, musselman curry, sweet lime soda)*
Diggi Palace (spend a perfect evening dining on the veranda, try veg thali sampler)
Rambagh Palace Verandah (have drinks here and feel like a Maharani)

SHOP
Anokhi (hand block printed bathrobes, placemats, baby quilts)*
Tokree (our friend Sanyukta Singh's whimsical shop; a pure delight)
Idli (Indo-French high-end fashion; expensive but chicest designs in Jaipur, his jackets are the best!)
Khadi Gar (hand-woven cotton)
Saurashtra Oriental Arts (kantha quilts for days)
Portrait by Tikam Chand (getting your black & white portrait taken on this 150-yr old camera is a must)*

DO
Hand block printing
Natural dyeing

STAY
Arya Niwas ($; barebones old faithful for the travel-worn textile set)
47 Jobner Bagh ($$; our newest obsession– a confectionary dreamland)*
28 Kothi ($$; chic heaven. Our Jaipur fam and home-away-from-home)*
Samode Haveli ($$$; our off-season lap of luxury, most heavenly pool)

BRING
The Love Guide to Jaipur

READ
A Fine Balance, Rohinton Mistry, 1995.